Morocco: The Beat of Islamic Tradition
"You will see a lot of old and well-maintained buildings than in Europe," claims Nadir with his strange sound of Arabic Darija dialect.
It was semester break and all I wanted was travelling to a unique and exotic place. Morocco became my first choice. My friendship with Nadir and other Moroccan immigrants in Selwerd Mosque, Groningen was the primary reason that motivated me to take this trip. It was a worthy and exciting trip. There was no trouble concerning visa because as Indonesians, I got free visa to do short term visit. Adding to that, Morocco is also relatively easy to reach by low-cost carriers from any European cities.
The Richness of Tradition and Its Marvellous Mediterranean Panorama
I travelled almost 1.000 km visiting cities in Morocco. It was started from Cassablanca and ended in Marrakech. In Cassablanca, I visited the second largest mosque in the world and built on the Atlantic shore. Part of the Mosque is literally built above the surface of the ocean. The architect drew his inspiration from the Quran verse that says God’s throne was upon the water. The architecture of the mosque has similar structure with Mezquita of Cordoba. It has rectangular shape of minarets as typical of Andalusian (Spanish) mosque. It was an enchanted experience to pray there.
In the downtown of the Capital City, Rabat there is a historic landmark for both Indonesian and Moroccan. The existence of Rue (street) Soekarno there resembles the intimate relationship between both countries. The first President visited Morocco after its independence was Soekarno, the President of Indonesia. Rabat also offers Doreh, the great Mausoleum of King Mohammed V.
My trip continued to the ruins of the Roman city of Volubilis near Meknes City and then the old city of Fez. Those cities are the cultural legacy to the contemporary Moroccan. It shows that Morocco is very old country. The founder of the Kingdom was buried in Fez.
Morocco has diverse landscapes. After having a delicious couscous and tajin, I crossed the Atlas mountain with its eternal snow peaks, to the desert cities of Er-Rachidia and Merzouga. Both cities lie on the edge of the Sahara desert. I found many visitors on their caravan in my way there. Next to that in the south is the old settlement of Jews in Ourzazate. I completed my journey with the charm attractions in the square of Jami el Fina in Marrakech.
I saw the proof of Nadir’s claim during my trip. Indeed, the old buildings endured. Clay walls stood still in the surrounding of every Medinas or old towns where I stopped. Kasbah or castles crafted in the mountain’s wall. The last centuries-built mosques were filled by people praying five times a day. The traditional markets were still flooded by buyers and sellers every day. Unlike in Europe, the buildings in Morocco are still relatively intact and original, have not undergone many renovations.
The People
Moroccan has loud and expressive way of speaking. They will use their body language often especially his hands. It made me feel uncomfortable at the beginning. I, myself had difficult time to distinguish whether they offered me a cup of tea or were angry to me.
Oh yeah, Moroccan is like a chatterbox. Sidi Ibrahim (Sidi is the way Moroccan call their elder), our driver, needed 10 minutes just to ask directions to people whom he met on the street. He would stop the car, greet people, call them Habibie, Si Muh, or Muhammad, then mince words used to say hello, and finally asked about the direction we were heading.
Another interesting thing is the habit of caressing each other’s head. They always do that even when they bargain in the market. This makes buying and selling in the market as a unique art. Indeed, citizens of Morocco are quite friendly. But it is not recommended to explore this country without the presence of an experienced friend. The Moroccan hospitality in providing information and scouting to the hotel is sometimes ends up in a request for some money.
Enjoying the Medieval
University of Al-Qarawiyyin of Fez is claimed to be the oldest university in the world. Fatima al-Fihria, the university's founder, immigrated to Fez from Qarawiyyin, Tunisia, and in the year 859 AD donated her wealth to build Mosque and University of Qarawiyyin.
That's where worship and education take place. People have been studying the Qur'an and Fiqh or Islamic law, languages, rhetoric, medicine, mathematics, astronomy, chemistry, history, geography and music. Diversity of topics and the quality of learning are the reasons that attract the interest of many scientists and students from around the world.
Scholars, such as Ibn Khaldun, Ibn Maimoon (Maimonides), Al-Idrissi, Ibn al-Arabi, Ibn al-Khatib, Al-Bitruji (Alpetragius), Ibn Hirzihim, and Al-Wazzan were associated with the university, either as students and teachers. In fact, Gerbert of Auvergne (later Pope Sylvester II), who introduced the number of zero and Arabic numerals to Europe, had been a student at this university.
Unlike the Al-Azhar University, Egypt, which has adopted modern methods of classical, exams and diplomas in teaching, Qarawiyyin still maintains their traditional methods. This famous building site in Morocco is also somewhat unique, which is near the spice market Suq al-'Attarin. When it is viewed from the contours of the land, Qarawiyyin is located in the valley, while the Suq al-'Attarin on ridges surrounding the valley.
So, if you are heading Qarawiyyin Mosque from Boujloud (Bab al-Julud, the gate to skin market) you have to walk through the hallway of the market towards the east. The road is winding down, fairly steep and not symmetrical. On your way, you will found many old stalls accompanied by the scent of typical Middle Eastern spices. You will also pass the tomb of Maulana Idris II, which is the destination of pilgrimage for the followers of Sufi orders. And, after walking a little further, you will found the building with its architecture typical of Andalusia, Spain. Instantly, a glimpse of the Islamic civilization greatness burst in our conscience. Amazing!
BOX == ==
Traditional values are preserved despite modernization continues to be encouraged throughout the country. On the streets, we are still seeing people wearing Jalaba with a pointed hood, a distinctive traditional robe of Morocco.
The majority of the population is Muslim (98.7%). This number often leads to assumption that when a person is not Muslim, he is not the originally Moroccan. This assumption is not entirely correct. In fact, the Christian and Jewish communities have settled long enough time in this country.
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